Sew Over It: The Ultimate Wrap Dress

I made another wrap dress! In researching (Googling, really!) wrap dress patterns, I came across this one.

Sew Over It: The Ultimate Wrap Dress

Sew Over It: The Ultimate Wrap Dress

Sew Over It is a sewing shop that also runs classes. The wrap dress pattern is for one of the courses offered at the shop. I ordered the pattern from their online shop and it arrived in my hot little hands just over a week later. (I think it must have shipped via Montreal, because it took longer than other patterns I have ordered from the UK. There were two holidays in there: St Jean Baptiste and Canada Day.).

How adorable is this? I love the packaging!

How adorable is this? I love the packaging!

The pattern is on tissue and comes with a delightful little booklet. The instructions are excellent and include sketches of the steps to make the dress.

I like the sketches! They even show a printed fabric, as would likely be used in the making of this dress!

I like the sketches! They even show a printed fabric, as would likely be used in the making of this dress!

I chose this particular page as I will never understand these knit patterns that have one set in sleeves. The Style Arc Kate has this instruction as well. Why? It is so much easier to sew the sleeves in flat, which is what I did on both. Otherwise, the instructions were complete and sensible.

Sew Over It: The Ultimate Wrap Dress

Sew Over It: The Ultimate Wrap Dress

So, the fabric. This was a recent acquisition from an ITY sale at Fabric Mart. They call it “Aqua/fuchsia/violet patchwork block print look ITY knit”. I call it “Holy cats! What was I thinking?” This is the danger of ordering fabric online. Scale is difficult to determine. Despite being a huge scale, there were no matching issues with this print. I consider this my muslin of this pattern, as there are, as ever, kinks to work out. The fabric, in spite of its wildness and unwearability (for me), proved the perfect weight for a test garment.

Front detail. This neckline is wide and low!

Front detail. This neckline is wide and low!

The primary issue I have with this pattern is the neckline. It is wide and it is low. For those reasons, I consider it to be unsafe for bras. Mine shows at the shoulders (which are very narrow) and at the crossover. These are easy enough fixes, especially since this pattern has good bones.

Back. What wild and crazy fabric!

Back. What wild and crazy fabric!

I like that the skirt on this dress is straighter than the Kate, which is more of an A line. It also has longer ties, allowing for a side knot or bow at the front. Ridiculously long ties!

So long that I can't get a photo of the whole thing! Look at the number on my mat!

So long that I can’t get a photo of the whole thing! Look at the number on my mat!

The ties are cut on the fold, so they are 127 cm (50 inches!)! Each! I think I can wrap them around me at least three times. As you can see from the photo, they have a 1,5 cm (5/8 inch) seam allowance. This means a lot of trimming before turning them out. I will cut the pattern down in future to eliminate that step.

I do like the neckline finishing on this pattern. It uses a facing.

Neckline facing pattern: great finish for the neckline! It will behave!

Neckline facing pattern: great finish for the neckline! It will behave!

The facing is shorter than the dress neckline, which means it is stretched while stitching. This neckline will stay in place and not droop!

While I am happy to have discovered a good wrap dress pattern, this one will require modifications to make it the ultimate wrap dress for me. I will have to widen the shoulder, raise the neckline and add length. As is, it hits above the knee (which I have already discussed at length, pardon the pun!). It is also a bit of a fabric hog, needing 2.4 m (2-2/3 yards), but then most wrap dresses are. There are efficiencies to be found in reducing seam allowances, of course, but that is for the shorter length. I used most of the 3 yards I purchased and would end up using almost all in adding the length that I require. This is a great addition to my pattern stash, but I am not particularly motivated to make the changes necessary at this time, since I have the Kate which ticks all the boxes, except for the straight skirt.

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