Simplicity 2209: Lisette Passport Dress

Another finished garment from my summer sewing list! I started this one in June, but the batiste I wanted to line it with did not arrive until the middle of July. Essentially, I was stuck mid-construction for a month, so I moved on to other projects. I feel as if I’ve been working on this one for a long time!

Simplicity 2209: Lisette Passport Dress

Simplicity 2209: Lisette Passport Dress

I found this fabric at Fabricland for 4$ per metre. It is a polyester that softened considerably after laundering. I was concerned that it would be scratchy, so I opted to line the dress with lavender cotton batiste, ordered from Martha Pullen during the crazy sidewalk sale in June. The batiste was 3$ per yard. So, in fabric, this dress cost 14$!

The lavender batiste I waited a month for. And, the concealed zip that is a complete mismatch! It is a shade of purple not present anywhere in the rest of the garment.

The lavender batiste I waited a month for. And, the concealed zip that is a complete mismatch! It is a shade of purple not present anywhere in the rest of the garment.

The dress was very easy to put together: only four pattern pieces. I actually changed that to six pattern pieces. The dress as drafted has a side zip, but when I made my muslin, I did not like getting into the dress from the side. So, I added a centre back seam to put the closure there instead. Adding the lining also complicated the dress. Without the lining, it took maybe three hours from cutting to completion. I could have been really precious and matched the plaid on this cheap fabric.

Side seam of skirt. See how I expended no effort in matching the plaid?

Side seam of skirt. See how I expended no effort in matching the plaid?

I did have to alter the cutting layout for my fabric. The dominant stripe in this plaid runs horizontally on the straight grain. I ended up cutting the fabric on the cross grain so that it would run vertically instead. When I held it up in front of the mirror, it looked better that way. However, during construction, that created stretch issues. That is probably why I could not topstitch a regular zip. I used a concealed zip, as in the Vogue 8667. And, as in that dress, I initially put it in backwards. Someday I will get it right the first time!

My favourite feature on this dress is the front bodice darts.

Here are the centre front darts. Such a neat effect, even with my poor (read non-existent) plaid-matching.

Here are the centre front darts. Such a neat effect, even with my poor (read non-existent) plaid-matching.

They add not only shaping to the dress but texture as well. I think it would work really well with just about any print, but stripes, particularly, benefit from visual effects like this.

The Lisette Passport dress is cute and easy. I am not in any rush to make it again as I do not currently have the kind of fabric it demands. It should be cute and easy in its fabric, too. Furthermore, I am sick of sleeveless clothes! I am not a fan of summer clothing and am starting to look at patterns and fabrics more appropriate to autumn and working.

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