As soon as I saw this Katherine Tilton pattern for Butterick, I knew that I had to have it.
It is a basic shirt with collar, but it has neck and side pin tucks that are just exquisite. The side tucks, in particular, seem like sun rays. I decided to make the sleeved view in a Kaffe Fassett shot cotton that I bought last summer at the Fabric Shack in Waynesville, Ohio. I believe the colour is Curry, although it may be Terra Cotta or Ginger.
This clearly does not fit my dress form, even though we have the same bust. In any case, the cotton is incredibly soft and lovely to work with. Everything went without a hitch, except for the fact that I stitched my pin tucks to the inside of the garment rather than the outside.
I think they still look like rays. The buttons I used are also visible here. They are textured coconut shell buttons I found at Fashion Sewing Supply, where I also get all of my interfacings. They are a little rough and this makes them a little challenging to fasten, as they catch in the threads of the buttonholes.
Most of the shirt was done by machine, but I always sew on buttons by hand. When I sew buttons on, they do not fall off in the wash! In this photo, you can see my mock flat-felled seam. I served the seam after stitching and then topstitched.
The back is simple: two contour darts for shaping. This is a simple shirt and I am glad I used it as my first shirt pattern. I had few adjustments to make, apart from sizing down. My bust puts me in a 14, but there was way too much fabric in the 14, particularly between the bust point and the shoulder. I could not get rid of it in the 14, so I sized down to the 12. It was much easier to eliminate the excess in the same area on the 12, but I had to add to the side seams. This pattern seems to have a lot of ease in certain areas (above the bust), but not in the waist/hip. I like the fit of this shirt, but the details almost necessitate a solid fabric for display. The pin tucks also make it a bit of a special shirt, as opposed to a truly basic shirt. Still, I really like it and could probably be persuaded to make another…